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SELF-BALANCING 

<1PANTAL00N SYSTEMI> 



FOR ALL THE 



"IMUlSFftMioFMi 



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BY 



^XJGMJSTXJS KOCH. 



Illusti^a^itbd by 



THREE PLATES OF DIAGEAMS AND FIGUEES. 



pouarrKFJEpf^rE, n. y. 

18 8 3. 





V 









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Self-Balancing Pantaloon System 



FOE ALL 



Tl]e Various Foriiis of tl]e ^uniai] Body. 



BY 



^XJG^XJSTTJS KOCH. 



iLIiUSTI^A^IiED BY ^^^^^£^-'>^rJ^ 
THREE PLATES OF DIAGEAMS AND EI&UEES. 



POUGHKEEPBIE, N. T. : 

18 8 3. 



■ \ 



Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1883, by 

AUGUSTUS KOCH, 

In the office of the Librarian of Congress, Washington, D. C. 



In the present improved Pantaloon System, wliicli is introduced by these lines, the Author 
claims that he has brought out and developed in a condensed form the most Complete, Coerect, 
and Simplified, Self-Regulating PANTALOoisr System ever gotten up. 

In it the Cutter will find the whole ground plan upon wiiich true Pantaloon Cutting is based, 
and the only correct principles by Avhich a correct Draft will be i)roduced for all the various forms 
of the human body for which the Cutter may be called ujDon to provide a covering. 

The system provides for all the so-called slim bodied, straight-legged, bow-legged, knock-kneed, 
and ]pot-belly forms, and is fully illustrated by three Plates of Diagr ams, with full instruction 
how to draft. 

The Author advises all to follow out the instruction as herein laid down in each lesson, and 
if so, the System cannot fail, to give entire satisfaction to all who may use it. 



FIGURE 3. 

ILLUSTRATION OP POINTS AND MEASUREMENT. 



The first important step toward successful Pan- 
taloon Cutting is, that we must have a correct 
measurement. We must know the exact length 
and dimensions of the form for which we are 
called upon to provide a covering. 

We must bear in mind, that unless the mea- 
sures are correct, the garment cut according to 
them cannot be correct. 

Therefore we say, too much care cannot be ta- 
ken when the tape measure is applied to the 
body. 

But before we apply the tape measure we 
should make it our rule and ascertain the follow- 
ing points : 

First : See that the i^antaloons the customer 
wears are close uj) in fork, so they will not inter- 
fere with the tape, when applied from these 
points. 

Second: Ascertain the style in which your 
customer prefers them ; then we find that most 
gentlemen have their own style and likings, in 
regard to height of waist and to the amount of 
material they prefer at difi'erent parts. 

Having done so, then Ave commence and mark 
our points as shown in Figure 3. 

First, make a mark on top of side seam, or, 
rather, where the waistband shall join the top of 
side seam, as at A. Having this point, then bring 
the arm of square flat against this mark ; let the 
other arm of square rest in front, as at D. Now, 
as the square rests in that position, being in a 
horizontal line with the body, or, in other words, 
level with the floor, then make a mark in front 
for top of fly line, as at D. Having these points, 
then we go on and show 

THE MEASUREMEIVT. 



Let A be the starting point — measure from A to 

B, full length of side seam, say 41|- inches. Then 
from D, down in front of fly to bottom of inside 
seam as at C, say 41 inches. Next, place the 
tape measure close up in fork, let it run down to 

C, and take full length of Leg, say 31i inches. 
Then apply the tape around the bottom, as 
shown by E, and measure according to fancy 
or fashion, say 17 inches. Next measure the 
Knee, as shown by F, line, also according to fancy 
or fashion, say 17 inches. The next measure is 
the Thigh, as shown by Gr. Now here we m.ust 
say, as that measure is intended to prove the 
Fork points, we advise all Cutters to use the ut- 
most care, and have the measure correct, other- 
wise it would be best not to take it at all. 

Bring the taj)e between the legs, then close up 
in fork, and then around the non-dress side of 
leg in a straight line with fork in a close-fitting 
manner, so it will show the actual size of leg, say 
21 inches. Next take the Seat measure, as shown 
by S. This measure should be taken over the 
most prominent part, and furthermore, moderate- 
ly tight, very much in the same way as you would 
take the Breast measure for a Coat — bring the 
tajDe around the body and note the amount, say 
36 inches — next take the Hip measure as shown 
by H, line — and this should be taken around the 
most prominent part of Hij^, say 34 inches — next 
take the Waist measure as shown by K, say 30 
inches. 

The next and last measure is the Balance Mea- 
sure. Bring the tape between the legs, pull it up 
close in fork, let one end of the tape rest on A, 



32 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



and tlien bring the other end of the tape to the 
same point, as shown by L lines, say 32 inches. 
JS'oTE : This measure shonld be taken in a 
close-fitting manner, and Avitli care. 

This concludes the measurement, summed up 
as follows : 

41^^ inches Side length. 



41 




Front 


( I 




31i 




Leg 


u 




17 




Bottom 


measure. 


17 




Knee 




" 


21 




Thigh 






36 




Seat 






34 




Hip 






30 




AYaist 






32 




Balance 







We have now taken the measurement. We 
will next turn our attention to the System, and 
to the figure AThich we hare to cover. My object 
in doing so is to show the fundamental principles 
upon which the System is based and that it con- 
tains the different points and lines as most readi- 
ly found on the form, and also to slioTV you these 
principles as distinguished from the i^rinciples of 
other systems. Cutters who give their attention 
and study to Pantaloon Cutting are in general 
very much divided in opinion as to which is the 
X)roi3er location for tlie base or construction line. 
JSTow^ some cntters will say, 'draw your side line 
of front (as from 0, to 0, Diagr U) and by this 
square out from bottom, fork, and top line, and 
linish the draft by those lines.' But this we find 
is entirely Avrong and does not meet with the 
form of leg and body — it will shorten the bottom 
of inside seam f inch (as at J, Diagr U) bring the 
fork line 1 inch up, and lengthen the top of fly 
\\ inch and therefore give openness to the legs, 
of 8 inches, Avhich amount they will spread apart 
at bottom when made up. 



Then again, some Cutters AAill say : mark out 
at fork line from side of front, \ of seat, and at 
bottom one-sixth of seat, then draw your baseline 
(as at K, F, line) and from this square lines at 
right angle. Nowwe must confess that this class 
of Cutters come very near to the point, but it is 
true also, that this line must change from \ of 
seat, and does not hold good in all cases. Again, 
some Cutters claim that by apx)lying f of seat, 
from side line out to centre of fork, and at bot- 
tom i of seat out to centre of leg (as at line I and 
X) that this would be the only safe rule to follow 
and Avork out the draft. Noav here Ave must say, 
This will liold good in some cases, but not in all. 

But we admit uoaa*, that either of these lines 
could be'made the base line, and by adopting 
certain modifications in one of them, the same re- 
sult might be produced as in Diagram U. But if 
we take a glance at the figure, or form of body, 
(AA'hich is the main subject of our lesson), we will 
find that a line draAvn from top of fly to the in- 
side of leg, (as at C, Figure 3), Avill be the most 
reliable and certain base line AAdiich we can either 
adopt or find — and this line we have in the draft 
of Diagram TJ. 

We Avill therefore set up the folloAving points 
AA-hich Ave intend to prove in the first draft : 

1st, We prove that L D is the most proper and 
reliable base line. 

2d, That this base line will bring the bottom of 
pants at right angle or level Avith the floor. 

3d, This base line AAdll shoAv how far the side 
line has to be draAvn in at bottom from the plumb 
line so that it will meet the form of leg. 

4th, We i^rove the value of the front length 
measure. 

5th^ We also prove the value of the thigh 
measure, if correctly taken and applied. 



PLATE XIII. 

SHOWING THE FUINDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES OF THE SYSTEM. 



Now before we shoAv these principles I want it 
understood that this is not the System AAdiich I 
am to lay before you for daily practice ; this Ave 
do in Diagram V. 

Therefore, any Cutter who should not feel in- 
clined to investigate this matter may turn direct 
to Diagram V, where lie aauU find the actual Sys- 
tem for daily practice. 

Diagram 11. 

DraAv a perpendicular line on side as shoAvn by 
dark line — square out to L. Then mark off side 
length from top to bottom 41i inches — square out 
at bottom to X — mark out to D, one-half of seat 



measure 9 inches — also the same amount out on 
top to L. Now place a long ruler on L and D, 
and draAv a line down, and AA'e have our base line, 
which Avill meet with the form, as from D to C, 
Figure 3— and this will prove our 1st point which 
Ave have set up. Then mark from D to Gr, leg 
measure 311- inches— G to C, one-fourth of seat, 
4i inches — square in from C to B— mark from D 
to one-third of bottom measure, Sf inches. 
Now bring ruler on and B and draw a line as 
from to and we have the actual side line of 
front part — and by this Ave prove our 3d point, 
showing that the side line is drawn 3| inches from 
the plumb line at bottom— and furthermore, 



PLATE, XIII 




THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. 



33 



slionld we square our bottom and top by tliis 
line it wonltT shorten the inside seam at D \ inch 
and lengthen the top at L 1^ inch. Having 
siiown these points we go on and mark in from 
C to E one-fonrth of Avaist 3f inches — mark F in 
•centi'e of O and D, then bring rnler on these 
points and draw a line from K through E to F 
and we have the line, which, when the pants are 
made up, will fall directly over the knee and rest 
upon the instep. Now as we have drawn this 
line it will prove at once that it does not meet 
with \ of set at fork line as above stated by some 
Cutters, and only does when the Avaist is the same 
amount as seat measure. Having shown this, 
then mark one-fourth of bottom measure 4^ inch- 
es from F to J. Then measure from O to J and 
l)ring i inch more than one-half out from O 
to U — next mark centre of U and D as shown l^y 
'■' — bring the tape on '■ and sweep out from G to 
S, and also into T. Having this then mark the 
fork points, bring one-eighth of seat 2^ inches, 
from G to H, and mark N in centre — from IN", 
mark out one-eight of Seat to S, which we make 
the point for underside or back. Now mark 
centre of H and S as shown by word '■'■Centre,'''' 
and draw a plumb line down to X, which isnow 
the actual centre point of Fork between front and 
back — from this centre point mark in one-third 
of seat, 6 inches, to T, and we are prej)ared to 
prove those points by the Thigh measure, which 
we find calls for 21 inches. Take one-third of 
this measure, 7 inches, and apply it as follows : 
Measure from T to H, 5^ inches, bring the 
amount, 5^ inches, on N, and extend the tape out 
to S, and we will find the whole amount Avhich 
we now have is li; inches, or ^ inch more than 
one-third Thigh, and being allowance for seams. 
This will show that the points as already estab- 
lished by seat measure does correspond with the 
Thigh measure. 

But here I must say, that, whenever a disj^ro- 
loortion should exist between the Thigh and Seat 
measure, then divide the difference and take the 
centre between them. For instance, if these 
points T, H, N, S, as established by Seat, should 
be as above 7^ inches, and the Thigh measure 
should call for 24 inches, one-third of which 
would be with -|^ inch allowance for seams, 8^ 
inches — here Ave Avould have one inch more Thigh 
than Seat for those i)oints,Avhicli Ave Avould apply 
as folloAvs : We would take ^- inch and add :} 
inch to H, and \ inch to S, AA'hich points Ave lu'iug 
that amount further out, and draAv our foi'k lines 
by those points. This includes also cases in re- 
verse Avhere the Thigli is less than Seat; mark one- 
half the difference in from H and S, and draw the 



fork lines by these points. Noav this Avill prove 
our 5th i)oint, the Value of the Thigh measure. 

But this measure will show more than this, as 
above stated. If Ave Avould apply the remaining 
tAvo-thirds of Thigli from those points Avhere we 
have applied the one-third for fork points, say 
one-third or 7 inches from N to 2 — then from 2 
to side line of front and back again to T, Ave aa-IU 
have the two-thirds and If inclies more, or in all 
15f inches. Now add one-third and ^ inch of 
fork points to this and Ave have the full Thigh 
measure and 21 inches more for seams and ease 
for the wearer. This, of course, is not necessary 
that Ave must apply the full Thigh. The princi- 
pal point is at fork, Avhere the i^oints established 
by Seat should correspond with the one-third 
Thigh. 

Having explained this more in length than Ave 
intended to do we go on and finish the draft. 

DraAv aline from T to U, — also from J to ^ inch 
inside of H. Then find the Knee line, apjply one- 
half of leg measure 15f inches from D up, and 
make a mark ; from this mark bring 2^ inches in 
all cases up to Knee line, and square across. 
Now api^ly one-fourth of Knee measure 4^ inches 
from * at T, U, line out to Y, and make a mark — 
from this mark Y apply one-half Knee measure 
into W, and allow ^ inch for seams at this point, 
and make a mark. 

Having these points, then apply one-fourth of 
Avaist measure, 3f inches, from K to M and make 
a mark — then from K to L, and alloAv one seam at 
that ]3oint. 

Next finish the top line — We have drawn a 
square line from to L, but this is not what Ave 
call the top line of front ; this Ave must uoav find. 
Apply the front length measure, 41 inches in the 
measurement, from D to L, and make a mark. 
Having this, then i)lace the ruler on M, top of 
side length, let it rest on L, and draw top line 
out — and l)y this we prove our 4th point, the 
value of front length measure. 

NoAV, as Ave have all these points, Ave go on and 
finish the front — shape the fly line for non-dress 
side from L to H — then from H, draAv a, gentle 
curved line to Y, or mark made by Knee measure, 
then to J at bottom — mark out one incli from H 
to I — then shape the fly line of dress side from 
L to I, and from I draAv a gentle curved line 
doAA'n, as shoAvn in Diagram. Next finish the 
side line from M to B, to A, througli W, to bot- 
tom at — also shape the bottom according to 
fancy or fashion, and tlie whole as sliown in 
Diagram U — and our first Draft is finished. 

In regard lo the shaping of side line belo^v A, 
this is not absolutely necessary, and may be 



34 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



left straight from A to 0. This is only a matter 
of taste, and the Cutter may choose for himself 
wliich i^lan he will adopt. 

But in the tight-fitting j^ants, Ij^refer the shap- 
ing of the side line to the form of the leg. 

Now, as we have shown the ground plan of the 



System, and the working of the different mea- 
sures in the draft, and also have i^roved our 
points as set up in the introduction of Diagram 
U, we are ready to take up our next diagram and 
show how to draft direct to the material, and lay 
before you the System for daily practice. 



PIRATE XIV. 
Diagram V. 



Draw a line along the edge of the material, as 
represented by O O line — but, if possible, then 
draw this line one inch from the edge at bottom 
so that the inside seam of leg will not be too 
much on the bias. By this line square out to M 
— and we now x)roceed by the same measures as 
given in Diagram U. 

Measure from toi3 or M line doAvn to 0, side 
length, and allow one seam for top, (41f inches) — 
from to A, length of leg, and one seam (31f incli es) 
— A to B, one-fourth of seat measure, (4|- inches) — 
bring the square on side line, angle resting on B, 
and make a mark at C — B to C, one-half seat, and 
J inch in all cases. (9^ inches). Then mark out 
at bottom, O to D, one-third of bottom measure, 
5|r inches. (Now here I must say, whenever the 
bottom is more than one-half seat, as will be the 
case in large spring bottoms, tlien in all such ca- 
ses take one-third of seat from to D). Having 
those points, then bring the ruler on D and C, and 
draw a line from L, through C, to D, which is 
now the construction line, by which we square 
all the horizontal lines across — place the square 
on this line, let arm rest on mark made by side 
length at 0, and transfer the bottom line through 
D, to J — then j)lace the square on construction 
line at C, let arm rest on B, and draw a line from 
BtoC. 

Now mark from C to E, one-fourth of waist, 
3f inches — mark F in centre of O and D — bring 
ruler on F and E, and draw a line from K 
through E to F. Then apply one-fourth of bot- 
tom measure from F to J, and make a mark. 
Next measure from O to J, take one-half of the 
amount, add \ inch in all cases, and bring this 
from to U — mark centre of U and D and make 
a mark as shown by *■. Then apply the tape 
measure from D, mark up one-half leg measure 
and make a mark — then to G, length of leg, and 
allow i inch for seam — then to L, front length 
measure, and allow one seam, (41 J inches). 
Then mark one-fourth of waist, 3f inches, from 
K to M — the same amount from K to L, and allow 
one seam at that point. Now j^lace the ruler on 
top of side seam, as at M, let it rest on L, and draw 
top line from L, through M, to — next place 



the taj^e on ^- in centre of U and D, and sweep 
from Gf to S and T. Having this line then mark 
the fork point — from G to H, one-eighth of Seat 
2^ inches, and mark N in centre — then apply one- 
eighth of Seat, from N to S, and mark I in cen- 
tre — from centre at I mark in to T, one-third of 
Seat, 6 inches, and make a mark. Then pr ove 
these jDoints by the Thigh measure — take one- 
third of Thigh, 7 inches, measure from T to H — 
bring the amount on N and measure to S, and 
allow ^ inch for seams, 74- inches — (See Diagram 

u.) 

Now draw a line from T to U, which line we 
make the centre of leg. Next draw a line ^ inch 
inside of H down to J. Draw knee line 2\ inches 
above mark made by one-half leg measure. Mark 
out from '"' at T U line to V, one-fourth of knee 
measure, 4^ inches — from V mark in to W, one- 
half of knee, and allow half inch for seams, 9 
inches. Having all these points, then com- 
mence and finish the front — draw fly line from 
mark at waist to centre of C and Gf, then curve 
out to H — from H draw a gentle curved line 
through V to bottom. Now mark out from H to 
I, one inch, and by this we form the fly and leg 
seam for dress side — draw a corresponding line 
from L to I, (or one inch) and then down, as 
shown in Diagram. Then flnish the side line 
from M through B to A, through W to bottom — 
also flnish the bottom as shown in Diagram, and 
the whole according to fancy or fashion. 

Now Cut the front out, and this brings us to 

The Draft of Under side. 

Place the front part on the cloth in the most 
convenient position, if the cloth is of a striped 
material, then the line K, F, should run parallel 
with the stripe on underside. 

Having this, then commence and extend the 
lines from front part to underside as at Y and AY, 
X and Y. Sweep out to S — place the tape on O 
at bottom and draw a sweep line from O to E., 
which is the line for length of under side at toj^. 

The Cutter should be very careful and not dis- 
place the front part after these lines are once 
drawn, otherwise those marks should be brushed 
out and a new start made — then it stands to rea- 



\ 



PLATE, XIV 




THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



35 



son should Ave disxilace the front from these lines 
we Avould draAv the pants out of balance. 

We then begin at bottom, and apply the mea- 
sure, which is 17 inches. Measnre from U to J, 
(say 3J inches in this draft), bring the amount on 
U, and mark out to X one-half of bottom mea- 
sure, 8i inches, and make a mark. 

N"ow measure full Avidth of front as from J to 
0, say 7 inches, bring the amount on X and ap- 
ply full bottom measure, and one inch alloAvance 
for seams to Y. 

K'ext, apply the knee measure in the same 
manner — from '■'• at T, U, line to Y, (say 4^ inches) 
bring the amount on '"■ and mark one-half of knee 
measure out to Y, for under side. N^oay measure 
the whole Avidth of front from Y to AY, place the 
amount on mark made for under side at Y, and 
mark full knee measure Avitli one inch alloAAance 
for seams to AY. The Cutter AA'ill see at once that 
all the alloAA'ance for seams are placed on the out- 
side of leg. 

ISText mark out from X to S, one-eigth of seat, 
as before sIioaaii in proving the thigh measure. 
Having this point, then place the angle of square 
on E, let long arm rest on X, and draAV a line up 
to P— on this line mark, from E to P, one-fourth 
of Avaist, 3f inches. Xow place the ruler on X, un- 
derneath the front part, let it also rest on P, and 
in that position draw a line doAvn for centre seam 
of back, or seat line. Then draAv line, which 
is now taken off by cutting out the front, up to 
under side — bring the tape on X, let the tape and 
chalk rest on top of said line as at O, and SAveep 
out to Q, AA'hich gives the length of Back. Hav- 
ing this, then mark out from to R, one-sixth of 
waist, or 2^ inches, and make a mark. 

Xow to prove the correct angle of under side, 
we apply the balance measure as foUoAvs : Mea- 
sure from H to M, in a direct line, (say 14^ inches), 
bring the amount on S, let the tape come in the 
same shape as fork line of back, then uj) in a di 
rect line to E, full measure, 32 inches, and alloAv 
\\ inch more for seams. This, as Ave Avill hnd, 
corresponds Avith the point as already established 
by waist measure. But in cases Avhere a dispro- 
portion Avill exist between these j^oints, then take 
the centre, and make this the point R — providing 
the Cutter is certain that the balance measure is 
taken correctly. 

XoAv draw a straight line from R to Q, and 
shape the top of back as shown in Diagram. 
Xext apply the Avaist measure from L to M, bring 
the amount on Q, then in on top line to R, and 
alloAv 1^- inches for seams, and Avhatever the dif- 
ference may be from this mark to R, take it out 
by aY, as slioAvn in Diagram. 



Xext apply Seat measure, from C, to side seam 
of front, as at Z, which is the centre of A and 
B — bring the amount on back line at C, and mark 
out for side line of under side at Z, ^ of seat, (18 in- 
ches), andalloAv 2 inches more for seams and ease, 
and make a mark. Xote : The extra alloAvance 
must be according to the customer s AA-ishes. If 
more ease is Avanted make it \ or even 1 inch 
more, but in general i3ractice 2 inches is sufficient. 
Xext apply the Hip measure, bring the tape 
on front of liy in centre of C and L, let it run to 
side line of front in centre of tojD line and Z (say 
84^ inches), bring the amount on P, then in to side 
line of under side, in centre of RandZ, full meas- 
ure, 17 inches, and alloAv 2 inches for seam and 
ease. 

Having all these points, aac are ready to finish 
the draft. Shape the fork line of back from 
centre of C and G out to S — from S down through 
A^ to X — give a little rounding beloAv the knee so 
it will show the form of the leg. 

Then commence and draw the side line, irom 
R tliix)ugli mark of Hip and St^at doAA-n through 
AY to Y — give a little rounding also beloAv the 
knee as shoAvn in Diagram. 

Xow mark \ inch beloAv X and Y, and finish 
the bottom of under side by these points. 

The next point is, bring the tape on * at knee 
line, and SAveep in from A, to side line, Avhich 
points must meet when the legs are joined. 

Having finished all these points, then Ave are 
ready to cut the back part out — and, when cut, 
then notch all these points, A^ and AY, also SAveep 
line at A, top and under side, and our draft (Di- 
agram A^), is finished. 

The Eiecessary Instrat'tioii !i»w to make 
tlaeisa up. 
In regard to making up, pains must be taken 
by the tailor to stretch and shrink the different 
parts as they wiU need ; and then in joining the 
leg, care must be taken that all notches Avill meet. 
It is certain that, should this be neglected l)y the 
tailor, it Avill produce a bad effect in the hang of 
the pants. Therefore too much care cannot be 
taken on these points. 

The first thing which is necessary : Have the 
underside stretched from A^ to S, so they Avill cor- 
resjjond Avith the length of front part. Xoav 
whatever the amount may be Avhich Ave have to 
stretch on the inside seam betAveen these points, 
the same amount must be stretched also on the 
outside seam from AA", to sweep line at A. Then 
beloAv the knee (say 5 inches below knee line) the 
underside sliould be shrunk in, equal on both 
sides. 

Xext, have the front stretched from bottom to 



36 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



within 5 iuclies of knee line, of an eqnnl amonnt 
on both sides (sa^' f inches more or less.) 

Now when joined, and the seams pressed out, 
then have the legs folded so that K, F, line will 
form the crease in front, and have them pressed 
to the form of the leg. The back slionld be 
shrnnk in from the knee np to fork line — below 
the knee they shonld form the calf of leg, and 
below this point the front shonld be bronght ont 
so it will form the necessary spring on bottom of 



whatever amonnt the fashion may call for. The 
Cntter will find that by so doing all the loose 
cloth in those places are taken away, and a nice 
smooth -fitting pants will be i^rodnced. We there- 
fore say once more, too mnch care cannot be 
taken by the tailor, to have the pants properly 
joined and pressed, because the gracefnl appear- 
ance of the pants when on the customer will de- 
pend in a great measure on the making np. 



Diagram W. 

SHOWING HOW TO PRODUCE A PAIR OF PANTS FOR A CORPFLENT MAN. 



This Diagram Avill show the whole working of 
the System. The changes which we find at point 
D and E are made according to the requirement 
of the form — otherwise the drafting is the same 
as in Diagram Y. 

The princix)al i^art is here as in all other cases — 
a correct measurement ; and if so, a good fitting 
pants will be produced, Avhich will give satisfac- 
tion to both Customer and Cutter. 

The measures are taken in the same manner as 
shown in Figure 3, and as before explained. 

We suppose now the figure will give tlie follow- 



mg measure : 








43 inches side leng 


th. 


441 u 


front 


(( 




31 


leg 


a 




19 


bottom 


measure 


20 


knee 




a 


27 


thigh 




a 


44 


seat 




a 


46 


hip 




u 


46 


waist 




C( 


40i '' 


balance 




ii 



The I>raft. 

Draw a line on edge of material — make a mark f 
inch below the top end of cloth and let this be the 
starting point. Bring the tajoe on this mark, and 
mark ofi" side length, and J inch more, to 0, 43^ 
inches — from O, to A, leg measure and one seam, 
31^ inches — A, to B, one-fourth seat — B, to C, 
one-half seat and ^ inch, 11^ inches — from 0, to 
D, one-third of bottom measure — mark F, in cen- 
tre of O, and D — F, to J, one-fourth bottom. 
Having these points, then we must draw the con- 
struction line as from L to D — but before we can 
do so, we must consider that this class of men 
will need more openness of legs, than the so-called 
slim form, or in other words his feet when in 
natural standing position will be more apart. It 
is therefore necessary that the amount is noticed 
when the measures are taken. We suppose now 
that this figure will require 1^ inches — take one- 
half of the amount, or f inches, and mark it out 
from D to D D, and we have the correct point by 



which we must draw our construction line — place 
the ruler on C and D D, and draw a line from L 
through C, to bottom — transfer the side length, 
by placing the square on construction line, from 
to J, same as in Diagram Y — also square out 
from C to B.. 

Next we must find j)oint E. Now here we 
must make a change from the slim form — ^^you 
will remember, that we have applied \ waist from 
C to E, in Diagram Y — which is correet in all 
cases where the Avaist is less than seat. But here 
we have 2 inches more Avaist than seat, and there- 
fore Ave apply one-fourtli of Avaist, of inches, from 
B to E, and this point is established according to 
the form of body. We must now say, that these 
two points are the only changes in the Avhole 
draft from Diagram \ , except' the measures 
which bring the form. 

Place the ruler on E and F, and draw a line 
from K, doAvn. Next apply the leg and front 
measure — bring the tape on D D, mark up 2^ 
inches more than one-half leg to knee line, then 
to CI, length of legs and one seam — then to L, 
length of front, and one seam, 44f inches, and 
make a mark — measure Avidth of bottom as from 
to J, take one-half and i inch more, and bring 
this from O to U — mark centre of F and D D — 
bring the tape on this point, and SAveep from Gr 
to S, and T. Mark out from Gr to H, one-eight 
of seat, and mark N in centre — then one-eight 
seat, from N to S, mark I, in centre — from I to T, 
one-third of seat. 

Now prove these points by thigh measure, as 
before stated in Diagrams U and Y — draw a line 
from T to U — also from H to J — mark out from ^ 
to Y, one-fourth knee measure — then from Y, 
one-half of knee and | inch more for seams, to 
W. 

Next apply one-fourth of Avaist from K to M 
— also the same amount from K to L, and allow 
one seam-^draAv top line, from side length to 
mark made by front length, as from M to L. 

Having all these points, then apply the hip 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



37 



measure, ^vliicli we lind is 1 inch more than seat, 
and Avhich shows that the belh* is so much furth- 
er out at that point of measure than at seat line. 
Now take this 1 inch and mark it out from con- 
struction line to fly as from * to^, and Ave are pre- 
pared to finish the front — draw the fly line from 
L, through '''•'. to H, from H, through Y, to J — 
also a corresponding line for dress side as before 
shown. 

Then draw side line from M, through B, to A, 
through AV, to bottom, as shown in Diagram Y, 
and cut the front out. 

TSie Draff of liislerside. 

Place the fronts on the cloth in a position as 
economical as possible, and then extend the lines 
from front part as before stated in Diagram T. 
Sweep out from M to R, by 0, at bottom. Hav- 
ing this, then apply the bottom measure from U 
to J, bring the amount on U, and mark out to X, 
one-half bottom, 9i inches ; then measure the 
full front, J to 0, bring this on X, and measure 
in to Y, full bottom, and allow 1 inch more for 
seam. Then apply the knee measure from "^ at 
U T line to Y, in the same manner as bottom. 
Always bring the allowance for seams on the out- 
side line of leg. Xext mark out on sweej) line at 
fork, from N to S, one-eighth of seat — bring an- 
gle of square on E, let arm rest on X, and draw a 
line up to P, wliich point is one-fourth of waist 
from E. Xow draw a line from X, through P to 
Q. Mark out from O to R, one-sixth of waist, or 



3f inches — bring the tape on JS", and make a 
sweep from to Q, — draw a straight line from R 
to Q, and sha]3e the top of underside. 

ISTow the next thing must be to i^rove x^oint R 
by the balance measure, which is 40^ inches — 
api^ly the tape from H to M, then from S to R, 
full measure, and 1^ inches allowance for seams 
as before explained in Diagram Y. ISText apply 
the hip measure from fly line in centre of C and 
L to side line of front, bring the amount on P, 
and then across to side line of under side as be- 
fore stated, and allow 2 inches more than one- 
half hip, 24| inches. Next apply the seat meas- 
ure from C to Z, in the same manner, and allow 2 
inches for seams and ease. 

Having this, then finish the under side, as in Di- 
agram Y, from centre of C and G, out to S — from 
S to Y, down to X, then from R, through mark 
of hip and seat to W, and down to Y. Also fin- 
ish the bottom by ^ inch below bottom line at X 
and Y. Sweep from A, hj "^ at knee line, out to 
side seam of under side. Then ai^ph^ the waist 
measure, L to M,then from QtoR, which we find 
is li inches more than one-half of waist and is 
the allowance needed for seams. This shows that 
the Y, which we have taken out in back of Dia- 
gram A^, is not needed in this draft. 

Now, as we have finished our under side, cut 
it out and notch all these points Y, W, and A 
as before stated, and the draft of Diagram AY is 
finished. 



PLATE XV. 

Diagram X. 

SHOAYING THE DRAFT OF THE SO-CALLED BOW-LEGGED FORAL 



This class of men, when in natural position will 
stand with heels close together, but from there 
the legs . will spread aj^art, so that a space 
along the inside of legs will be seen, which is of 
more or less extent — but Avhatever it may be, we 
find the largest amount between the knees. To 
meet the requirement of the form, and to provide 
a covering which Avill give full satisfaction to cut- 
ter and customer, it is necessary that certain 
changes have to be made in the draft, from the 
regular straight form of leg ; and these changes 
we intend to show in this Diagram. The mea- 
surement is the same as Figure 3. But as we in- 
tend to explain the whole, and by so doing make 
sure Avork, we must therefore add one more mea- 
sure, by which we ascertain the real amount 
which we have to apply in the draft. This mea- 
sure is very simple, but sure. Let the customer 
stand in natural position, with heels close to each 
other, then measure between the legs from knee 



to knee, (say 4 inches), and we have the true 
guide to draft by. 

AA^e therefore say, that any other plan whicli 
the cutter may have, or that he may adopt with- 
out this measure, is only guesswork and un- 
certain. 

The measures we suppose are as follows : 



41 


inche 


s side length. 


41 


'* 


front " 


31 




leg 


17 




bottom measure. 


18 




knee '• 


21 




thigh " 


36 




seat " 


33^ 




hip 


31 




waist ' ' 


32 




balance " 


'4 




sj)read of knees. 
The Draft. 


Draw 


a line 


one inch from the edge of material 


which r( 


^presents line, and square out to M, 



38 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



from tliis line to O, side length and one seam 
— to A, leg and one seam — A to B, one- 
fonrtli seat — B to C, one-lialf seat, and one seam 
— O to D, one-tliird bottom — F in centre of O and 
D — draw line from L, throngli C to D — sqnare 
out by this line from D to O, and then draw line 
to J — also square from C to B — mark up from 
D, \ leg and 2^ inch to knee line — then to G, 
length of leg and one seam — then to L, front 
length, and one seam — C to E, one-fourth waist — 
draw line from K, through E to F — F to J, one- 
fourth bottom — measure from O to J. take one- 
half and \ inch more and bring it from to U, — 
mark centre of U and D — bring tape on this mark, 
and sweep out from Gr to S. and in to T — Gr to H, 
one-eight of seat, N in centre — from N to S, one- 
eight_]of seat, I in centre — from I to T, one-third 
of seat — prove these points by thigh measure as 
before stated — draw line from T to U — also draw 
knee line — mark one-fourth of waist from K to M 
— then from K to L, and allow one seam at that 
point — then draw top line from L to M, to 0. 

Having all these i^oints and lines ; then comes 
the changes which we must make to meet the 
form of leg. The spread of knees is 4 inches, 
which gives 2 inches for each side of leg. JSTow 
take these 2 inches, and apply one-half or \ inch, 
from T U line to 1, at knee, and make a mark — 
also the same amount from K F line in to 2, and 
make a mark. Having these points, then jJlace 
the ruler on T, and 1, and draw a line to knee, 
then from 1 at knee to U, as shown by dark line. 
Next draw a line from K to 2, then from 2 to F, 
and we have these lines in harmony with the form 
of leg. Next apply the knee measure, take one- 
fourth, (4J inches) and bring this out from 1 to V 
■ — from Y, mark in one-half of knee, and ^ inch 
more for seams to W. Now, here we must 



say to the inexperienced Cutter, that by apply- 
ing one-half of the amount of spread to the front, 
the other half will be taken off by the under side 
or back. 

Having established these i)oints, we are ready 
to finish the front. Draw fly line from L to H, 
also from L to I — then from H, through Y to X, 
as shown in Diagram. Next draw side line from 
M; through B, tiirough AY to O. Also finish the 
bottom and the whole as sllo^^^l in Diagram, and 
cut the front out. 

The Draft of Under sMe. 

Place the front on top of material — make a 
SAveep by 0, at bottom, from 0, at top, to R. — 
extend the lines at fork, knee and bottom — apply 
the bottom measure as shown in Diagram Y, and 
W. Also the knee measure, from 1 to Y, bring 
the amount on 1 — and mark off one-half of knee 
to \ — then from Y to W, of front, bring the 
amount on Y, and mark out full measure and one 
inch more for seams to W — next j)lace the angle 
of square on E, at dark line, let arm rest on N, 
and mark up to P, one-fourth of waist — bring 
ruler on N and P, and draw back line of under- 
side — sweep by N, from to Q, — mark out from 
O to R, one-sixth of waist, and finish the top of 
back — then prove point R, by balance mea- 
sure, as before explained — apply hip and seat 
measure as before stated, and allow 2 inches more 
for seams and ease. Having all these points, 
then finish the draft by drawing a line out to 
S, from S to Y, to X — then from R, through hip, 
and seat, to AY, and down to Y — mark \ inch be- 
low X and Y, and finish the bottoiu. Next 
apply the waist measure from L to M, then from 
Q to R, allow \\ inches for seams, and the bal- 
ance take out by a Y in back. 



Diagram Y. 

SHOWING THE DRAFT OF THE SO-CALLED KNOCK-KNEE STRUCTURES. 



This is a class of men whose legs will touch 
closely all along the thighs to the knee, but then 
commence and spread graduall}'- apart down to 
the feet, at which place we may And a sjDace of 4 
to 6 inches, and in some cases even more. 

This shows to us that some certain changes 
from the regular straight-legged forms must be 
made ; but how these changes have to be made 
so that they will meet the requirement of the 
form and prove satisfactory, is a question which 
we should not be too. hasty to decide, and, es- 
pecially, not before we have fully investigated 
the form. 

Now, when we investigate the form, we find 



they need exactly the same shajDe of body and 
leg down to the knee, as the straight form, but 
from the knee down they differ from each other 
— Avliich proves that whatever change the form 
may need, it must be between knee and feet. It 
is now a clear fact, that a certain amount must be 
brought in from J, U, F and 0, at bottom. But 
the question may arise, what is the certain 
amount which will hold good in all cases. AYe 
answer, take a measure that will show you the 
disproportion of the feet, and then I will tell 
you the certain amount. Therefore, let the cus- 
tomer stand in natural position with knees close 
together, and when so, then measure from heel to 



PLATE, XV 




THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



39 



heel, (say 4 inches)— and the certain amount 
which we must appl^- at these points is 1 inch. 
The measurement is as shown on Figure 3, say: 

42 inches side length. 

4U " front " 

32 " leg 

17 " bottom measure. 

17 " knee " 

22 " thigh 

38 " seat 

34 " liip 

32 " waist •' 

32| " balance " 
4 " s2Dread of heels. 

The Draft. 

All the main points are exactly the same as in 
Diagram \~ square out to M— from this line to 
0, side length— to A, leg measure— A to B, 
one-fourth of seat— B to C, one-half seat and 
I inch added— to D, one-third bottom, F 
in centre— F to J, one-fourth of bottom— draw 
line by D, and C to L— square bottom by this 
line out to 0— also out to B— measure 2i in- 
ches more thau one-half leg to A"— full length 
of leg and \ inch to G— full front length to 
L— C to E, one-fourth of waist, and draw a 
line by F E, to K— one-half bottom and \ inch 
from O to U— ^- in centre of D and U— bring tape 
on -^ and sweep out from G to S— mark fork 
points as before stated, G- to H, one-eight seat, N" 
in centre, from N to S, one-eight, and mark cen- 
tre point of fork— from this point mark one- 
third of seat to T— prove fork points by thigh 
measure as before stated— from K to M, one- 
fourth waist, also one-fourth to L, and allow for 
one seam— draw top line from Lto M, to 0— then 
from T to U— also from H to J. 

Having all these points, then we are prepa- 
red to change the bottom lines so they will 
meet with the form of leg. The measure we 
have taken is 4 inches, which gives 2 inches for 
each leg. Of these 2 inches, we apply one-half to 
the front, and l)y so doing, the other half is taken 
off from the back or underside. 

Xow take the one inch, mark it in from J to J 
2, also to U 2, F 2, and 2, and we have the 
points Avhich correspond with the form— then 
draw lines from knee down to these points, as 
shown ])y dark lines, l)y which we finish the bot- 
tom of front part. Having this, then measure 
out from T U line, one-fourth of knee to \, and 
from this point one-half of knee to AV, and allow 
for seams— and Me are ready to finish the front. 
Draw the fly line from L to H, and from H, shape 
inside line of leg through A^ to J 2— then from L 
to I, and down to \. Then from M, through B to 
A, through W to bottom at 2, as shown hi Dia- 
gram. Also flnish bottom, and cut tlie front out. 



Draft Under side. 

Place the front on the cloth, sw^eep by 2, 
from to R, also extend the other lines from 
front across. JSText apply the bottom measure — 
measure from U 2, to J 2, or inside line of front, 
bring the amount on U 2, and mark out to X, 
one-half of bottom, then apply the tape from J 2, 
to O 2, bring the amount on X, and measure to 
Y, full bottom, and alloAv 1 inch for seams. 

Next apply the knee measure, from T U line to 
y, bring the amount on this point again, and 
mark out to Y, one-half of knee measure — then 
from V to side line of front, bring the amount on 
A^ of underside, and mark out to AY, full knee, 
and allow for seams. JSTow place the angle of 
square on E, let arm rest on N, and mark up to 
P, one-fourth of waist — draw back line from X, 
through P to Q — sweep by X, from 0, to Q — 
mark out from to R, one-sixth of waist. Then 
l^rove this ]Doint by balance measure, as before 
stated — apply the hip and seat measure, and al- 
low for seams and ease, as in Diagram A^. 

Having all these points, then shape the back 
down to S, from S to Y, to bottom of X — also 
from R, through hip and seat to AA", down to Y, 
in the manner as before shown. 

Xow mark \ inch below X and Y, and finish 
the bottom of underside, and all the rest as ex- 
plained in Diagram A^. 

The Cutter Avill find that we have drawn our 
bottom out on side line of leg just 2 inches, which 
the measure calls for. 

Now as the draft is finished, then cut the back 
out, and notch all the points as before stated. 

Diagram Z. 

The Shape of Waistband. 

It is not absolutely necessary that the M-aist- 
band must be drafted as herein given — but we 
must say, that if this plan is adopted, the Cutter 
will be pleased with the result. Then by draw- 
ing a curved line on bottom the top part will 
spread more from the body, and therefore give 
more_ease and comfort to the wearer. 

AA"e therefore give a guide to the student, by 
which he may produce it. 

Draw a line from O to A— mark from A to B, 
waist measure, and allow one seam — mark down 
from B, one inch — then draw a curved line from 
A to B. Xow mark up from A to C (say 2 inch- 
es)— then from D to E, same amount— then in 
back (say V^ inches)— and di'aw top line by these 
points. 

Xow cut tlie waistband out, have the jtnits 
made up as l)ei'()re stated, and the work is 
EXDED. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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